Desa Tempur, A Hidden Paradise in the Muria Mountains
Jepara - Why would you have to die first to see heaven? Even if you commit suicide like my favorite band’s vocalist, Mas Bennington, from the time I was still wearing my white-and-gray school uniform—Linkin Park—there’s no guarantee you’d even get to see heaven, right?
Okay, I’ve been a resident of Jepara since 1987, and it took me 30 years before I finally got the chance to visit this incredibly beautiful and mesmerizing village. Yeah… I’m way behind all of you. The opportunity was always there before, but I never really cared about it. In my mind, if it was still within Jepara’s territory, it must be just so-so. But the reality is, Desa Tempur is extraordinarily beautiful. A village rich with coffee plantations where the trees are more than a century old, crystal-clear mountain rivers flowing abundantly, natural rock formations, towering solid cliffs, fertile and prosperous land, friendly locals, cool fresh air… Ahhh, everything good seems to be here.
To reach Desa Tempur, you really need patience because it’s located 17 km from the main Keling road. If the road were flat, it would take about half an hour. But in reality, it’s a steep, winding climb. Still, the long journey doesn’t feel tiring at all because as far as the eye can see, you’re treated to natural rural scenery reminiscent of Ubud in Bali, along with a clear river where you can stop anytime to rest, enjoy the cold and pristine mountain water that hasn’t been polluted, and gaze at the vast, towering rock cliffs—as if you were standing at the bottom of a crater.
I was accompanied by Ahmad, Kang Ary, and the most patient and experienced trekking guide, Mbah Slam. Finally, the four of us arrived at the house of the caretaker (juru kunci) of Candi Angin. Yes, besides passing through the beautiful Desa Tempur, our goal was to hike to Candi Bubrah and the peak of Candi Angin. A glass of authentic Tempur coffee served by the homeowner instantly boosted our spirits.
We pushed our vehicle further into the coffee plantation all the way to the edge, because it saved us about an hour of travel time and a lot of energy. Once we reached the end of the coffee plantation, we left the motorcycle safely under the stairs leading up the hill. The important thing is that visitors must first get permission from the caretaker.
The trail to Candi Bubrah and Candi Angin is considered light, gentle, and relatively short. In less than an hour, we had already reached Candi Bubrah. From there, it took us about another 20 minutes to reach the peak of Candi Angin (because we kept stopping to take photos and enjoy the view). If you walk quickly, you can reach the peak in about 30 minutes.
According to history, Candi Angin is said to have already existed long before Borobudur Temple was built. The structure of Candi Angin consists of irregularly shaped square stone slabs stacked to form the temple. Much of the temple has already collapsed, most likely due to the ancient eruption of Mount Muria.
From the peak of Candi Angin, I could clearly see the summit of Songolikur. It turns out it’s actually quite close if measured by air distance. A Javanese eagle that had been soaring and dancing around the Songolikur peak since morning added to my awe at all of His creations. See… I’m getting dramatic again. Amazed? Absolutely. This was also the first time I had ever seen rocky hills still covered with large, towering trees.
Anyway, hiking here is definitely not tiring. You don’t need to struggle and pant your way up. You could even run, but it would be a shame to miss the beautiful scenery.
After the Dhuhr prayer, we descended back to the basecamp to rest. The lady of the house had already prepared a very simple but incredibly delicious lunch for our hungry stomachs: rice, oblok-oblok (cassava leaf dish), tempe mendoan, and sambal. It was also served with a full pot of coffee. We had actually brought our own provisions of kampung chicken and rice too. When we mixed everything together, our meal became even better. Wow… we were so full!
Okay, it was already late afternoon, time to continue our journey. Mbah Slam invited us to stop by the house of the Village Head of Desa Tempur. He has a homestay for guests who want to stay overnight. His house is nice and spacious. Behind the house flows a very clear river. To the left of the house, he grows various vegetables such as lettuce, water spinach (kangkung darat), tomatoes, and more. The atmosphere was really pleasant. We should stay here sometime—bring the kids too. I’m sure they would love playing in the river.
At 4 PM, we had to head home. We descended the winding road, passing towering cliffs, clear rivers, and lush rice fields. Oh man… we still managed to stop for more photos. So, when exactly are we going home?
